Stu's Travels

Saturday 18th November, Town of 1770, Queensland, Australia

I've been in Australia for exactly a week now and I'm loving it. It's totally different to Africa (well, duh!)- lively, developed and literally full of backpackers- they're bloody everywhere! As for the hordes of Japanese tourists, well they just take the biscuit!

My flights to australia were traumatic- the flight to Perth was delayed by just enough that I missed my connectinf flight to Ayres Rock, so I had to be re-routed via Sydney and was 3 hours late, and without any luggage. Anyway, I eventually made it to Cairns and checked into the backpackers which was cheap but not nasty.

Cairns was pretty cool- plenty of atmosphere, bars, music and entertainment. It's also the gateway to the Great Barrier reef, so I thought it'd just be plain rude if I didn't go and see it! I took a day trip to Green Island, where the snorkelling was great and the beach idyllic (apart from the Japanese- they get everywhere!). Another day was spent taking the scenic railway up to the jungle town of Kuranda, walking around the rainforest, before zipping back down on the SkyRail- a 15 kilometre cable car just above the forest canopy.

After 4 nights it was time to move on to my next stop, Airlie Beach, a lively, 'vibey' strip of bars that happened to be full of school kids on their end-of-school beach holiday/debauchery. It was a pretty nice place to be though, with a nice beach and lagoon (outdoor swimming pool).

As is becoming unfortunately all-too-common, just as I felt settled in airlie, it was time to move on. I guess doing the East Coast this quickly was always going to be rushed.

An overnight coach ride to the town of '1770', my next destination meant that I stumbled into this oddly-named place slightly dazed and confused. 1770 is a very chilled out town tucked away off the main road, an oasis in between the dull, faceless towns that tend to be all-too common.

Within ten minutes of arriving I was rushing down the high street to catch a surfing lesson in what is reputedly Australia's best beach to learn- small, constant waves and cheap lessons mean it is ideal for beginners. The surfing was great fun- warm water and easy riding were perfect for beginners, but it was still bloody hard work!

On my first time, I popped up perfectly, closed my eyes and rode the surging wave like a pro... then it was time to get into the water!

I managed to fluke my first real wave, standing up with textbook style and riding all the way to the beach. I though "this is way too easy" until I remembered I'm famous for my lack of balance (both drunk AND sober)! From then on it was hard work- lots of paddling and falling off before I founf my form again just before we finished. so for those who remember the "ski school" days, I'm glad to report my surfing is way better than my skiing!

So here I am, exhausting and sat in a hammock watching the world go by. The hostel here is very chilled, with great gardens and a funk atmosphere. It's just a shame I can't stay here longer- but being in Brisbane for the first test

Cape Town, 8th November

Once I had said my goodbyes to the truck it was time to take the flight from Zimbabwe to Jo'Burg, which went suprsingly smoothly considering the lack of organisation everyone there has. I survived in one piece, but unfortunately the wooden Rhino I had bought as a present for the Small family in East London didn't- the poor bugger arrived both horn- and leg-less into the semi-civilised world.

I spent two nights in Jo'Burg , staying with Greg Pitt (an old friend from my gap year) before moving on to East London for the week to once again stay with the Smalls. Their house was just as I remembered it, set just of the Nahoon River with stunning views, which proved perfect to daydream and reminisce over.

Then it was on to Grahamstown (the town where I spent my Gap Year) for a few days, where I managed to slip back into the old rhythm of partying hard with the Rhodes students by night and lazing by the pool by day. I went back to visit Kingswood, and it like Grahamstown, hadn't changed at all apart from the people. It did feel stlightly strange seeing so many familiar faces in a place where I used to know everyone. Even so we had some great nights back in The Rat and Parrot and Friar Tuck's, which brought back many hazy, alcohol-fuelled memories!

After Grahamstown I went back to east london for a few days, and took in a day-nighter at Buffalo Park from the comfort of the hospitality lounge thanks to John Small. But all too soon it was time to move on once again, only this time I was headed for Cape Town.

Cape Town was stunningly beautiful, as ever. The scenery (for anyone who hasn't been) is spectacular thanks to the towering Table Mountain, and it was paradise to be back on Camps Bay, sipping cocktails in front of perfect a sunset. I stayed at the base of the mountain with Angie, who I met way back at my local pub, funnily enough (as if I'm ever anywhere else!).

We spent a great two weeks eating out, drinking out, and lazing around at hers, which was divided by a weekend in Stellenbosch. There I met up with the same truck that I had been on up to Vic Falls, and more importantly everyone on board! We took in a wine tour around some of the famous vineyards, which essentially led to two nights of debauchery, before driving down to Cape Town and then on to Boulders' Beach and the Cape of Good Hope for a day.

So now I'm here on Camps Bay beach, watching the world go by and taking in the beautiful scenery. I've only got two days here before I leave for Australia, leaving Africa behind me. Africa has been fantastic- two and a half months have gone by in the blink of an eye, but I've seen and done so much that it's time for a new challenge- and frankly I can't wait to get to Oz for good old-fashioned Ashes-style Aussie-Bashing! Until then I'm going to be busy packing for my 24 hour trip to Cairns via 4 different flights!

So when I get there, it'll feel like 4am, but ACTUALLY it ll be lunchtime and it'll be 35 degrees....

October 14th, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

As I write this now, my overland trip has come to an end. Today, I fly to Jo’burg for the next leg of my trip- South Africa.

Its been an action-packed last week- we left Harare for Gweru, which is a small outpost with nothing of interest except our campsite- but what a campsite! ‘Antelope Park’ is a totally natural breeding centre for lions, where tame elephants roam through your campsite and you can actually go for bushwalks with the lions, touch them, and feed them! The experience was surreal, but obviously fantastic fun!

In the three days we were there, we played with the lion cubs twice, went for a swim while sat on top of a fully grown elephant, and went on a bushwalk with three fully grown lions- exhilarating experiences right up there with the best on my whole trip!

Reluctantly we left for Bulawayo, where we spent two nights, and took in the local ruins which were actually a big disappointment. Then, it was onto my final destination, Vic Falls, one of the Seven Wonders of the World and known locally as “The smoke that thunders”.

Although I had seen the falls before, I was really keen to go white-water rafting which I missed out on last time. This was hard to put into words- challenging, frightening, adrenaline-fuelled, and exhilarating all fall short of the mark. The rapids are some of the fiercest in the world, and apparently this time of year is the ideal time to do it if being scared sh*tless is your cup of tea! Overall, the day was fantastic (despite a couple of near-death experiences!), and certainly worth every penny.

We followed this up with a meal at a local restaurant to celebrate my last night, with game meats and African dancing, and then hit the local backpackers for my farewell night. Plenty of drinks, laughs, and even a 2am swim made a really fun final night.

So now my time on the truck is at an end- wow seven weeks really has flown by! I’ve had an amazing time with some brilliant people, but Africa has really done itself proud. When I think of all the astonishing sights I’ve seen, I realise just how lucky I’ve been to be able to come to such an untouched corner of the globe.

It feels like time to move on, but I will hopefully never forget the one thing that has made this stand out from any other trip I’ve made- the local people. Welcoming without exception, so happy with life despite living with what we would call ‘nothing’, and generous beyond belief, it is the locals of Eastern, Central, and Southern Africa that have made us all enjoy the trip so much. It really has made me think how on earth money can equate to so-called happiness when you see these people with so little loving life so much.

So it’s over now, time to move on- but I hope the memories of this trip, and particularly of the people I’ve met, will stay with me till the day I die.

Octover 6th, Harare

The end of my African Overland is approaching too fast (as always), as I've only got one week left. After leaving Zanzibar (paradisical incase I forgot to mention last time!) we spent a quiet night back in Dar es Salaam before a couple of big drive days down to Malawi, home of the infamous 'Malawi Gold' and some of the friendliest people on earth.

Our first night was spent on the shores of Lake Malwai, the 7th biggest lake in the world, which takes up 1/2 of the entire country! Chitimba beach campsite was crazy, as there were a couple of other trucks in containing plenty of nutters. It goes without saying I woke up with a thumping headache, but it was softened substantially by the view of a bright red sunrise over from the comfort of my tent on the beach.

After Chitimba, we left for Kande beach where we spent 3 nights on a similarly white sandy beach where the sun was strong and the water warm, fresh, and clean. Nights were spent in the awesome bar (where else?), and then later on the beach, and every single one was raucous due to the four trucks on site.

We spent one day snorkelling around a small island, which was more like swimming in a tropical aquarium than a freshwater lake. All in all a fantastic place, full of welcoming people.

Yesterday, we crossed into Mozambique, which brought about a noticeable change. At the border, we were kept for 3 hours while the bureaucrats copied our details into 5 different books for no apparent reason- apparently they don't do photocopiers here!

Added to this was the 40 degree heat for most of the drive, and possible the worst night's sleep due to a rooster who must have popped too many viagra that night! All in all (although we've only driven through the interior and the coast is supposed to be much better) it would be an understatement to say I hate the place.

Today, we crossed into zimbabwe-the last country on my trip. The border was difficult, as expected, and Bob Mugabe added to his Swiss Bank Account by charging us massive Visas to get in. Nevertheless, for some reason, I like Zim. Its not as hard up as the BBC would have you believe, and the local whites still exist, just not on their farms. The currency is ruined, admittedly, and food is scarce, but everything runs on time and works, unlike some of the other countries.

Harare has also been suprising- the streets are safe and clean, and the people are friendly. The city centre is really developed- while some say it's due to Mugabe, and others say it was the whites who laid the infrastructure, the reality is its halfway between the two.

working suprisingly well

September 26th, Kendwa Beach, Zanzibar Island

We left the Masaai Mara early in the morning to head back on the road to Nairobi. On the way we stopped in at a Massai village, which turned out to be a bit 'touristy', but pretty cool nonetheless.

We had planned to bush camp on the way back to nairobi, but instead we powered on through to reach Karen camp, where we had begun our trip three weeks ago.That night our tour leader, Mark left us to head back to Australia for a few weeks, so we had some farewell drinks with him and our new driver Eddie- a South african/Zimbo who's even more chilled out than me!

The next day everyone chose to catch up on life, and we then went out for dinner to a local restaurant for a farewell meal for a couple who have been with us since the start of the tour. Out of nowhere in turned into a massive party with everyone having a great time until the local white Kenyans kicked off with the British Army (Both think they still run the place) and we got caught in the crossfire!

The morning after the night before we said our goodbyes and headed off to Arusha in Northern Tanzania with three new group members. On the first night we stayed at a snake park- campasite and the following morning we took a camel ride tto another Masaai village, which turned out to be very bizarre! Some of the group went off into the Serengeti and Ngorogoro crater, while a few of us stayed and spent the days chilling out in the bar, playing crazy golf, and trying to stop our tents from getting washed away by torrential storms!

We then made the trip down to Dar es salaam, Tanzania's coastal capital, spending a night camped on the beach drinking potent slushies- which caused a sea-sicknesses epidemic on the Zanzibar ferry the next day! The ferry turned out to be an experience in itself, being more like a floating cattle truck than a ferry as we know it!

We arrived in Zanzibar Island's capital, Stone Town late in the day and spent the evening drifting along the seafront fish markets and chatting with the locals. The next day we did the famous 'Spice Tour' visiting a local spice farm and the prisons from where the slave trade began way back in the 15th century.

So now, here i am- sat in a hammock on a white sandy beach where the water is warm and blue and the beers are cold and cheap.

Are you jealous yet?

You should be- it's paradise.